A couple of observations to start with:

There's so much food to talk about that it has to go in a separate post...

This started as a work trip, at the SEAsia Conference in Kyoto:



But I had a few days' leave to tack on to the end, so we bought a rail pass, and went from Kyoto and environs to Hiroshima, Miyajima, Himeji, and Osaka. A little cold at this time of the year, but most rewarding.

So here's my Japanese Top Ten:

1. Foresightedness. People have really thought about things... You're on the bus, and if you don't have a travel card, you'll need to pay with coins. So we'll put a note-changing machine up near the driver in case you don't have the right money. (On the streetcar in Hiroshima, we'll even give you a conductor to look after you. Remember those?) You've had to take your shoes off to enter a temple, and now you need to go to the toilet. So we'll put a few pairs of bathroom slippers at the entrance to the cubicles. It's raining, but you don't want to lug your wet umbrella round as you make your purchases or view your exhibition. So we'll put a set of lockable umbrella holders outside the shop or gallery. When you sit down in a cafe, you'll want something to drink straightaway, and a means of freshening up. So here's some iced water or tea, and here's a wet wipe -- no, don't worry, no charge. You're staying at a modest hotel? We'll still courteously provide you with slippers and a kimono. There used to be a saying in the British Army: "Any idiot can be uncomfortable." Meaning that it takes brains to be comfortable. Well, the comfort levels in Japan bespeak geniuses.



2. Toilets. This is actually a specialized extension of No. 1. And yes, I know, we all snigger at Japanese toilets. But really, the joke is on the scoffer. Who wouldn't want a heated toilet seat in the depths of winter? Shouldn't every toilet have a built-in deodorizer? Aren't those elaborate washing facilities pretty damn practical at the end of the day? And there are times when everyone needs a "privacy button" (which mimics the sound of running water or a toilet flushing to mask the sound of whatever else is going on in there). Go forth and multiply, Japanese toilets -- you'll be a relief to us all.

3. Aesthetics. The Japanese have an impeccable eye for design. Shop windows, bento boxes, lunch trays, packaging -- all exquisite.





4. The way this country deals with density. Japan has a population of 127 million (compare the UK's 64 million and NZ's 4.5 million, all on roughly the same land area). They deal with lots of people needing residences by making houses small and close together. They deal with lots of people on the roads by opting for small cars, and turning any old odd spaces into an organized car park (and by creating a fantastic rail system -- see below). They deal with lots of people needing to be fed at the same time by inventing incredibly efficient queuing, ordering, and serving procedures. They really are the kings of the vending machine. Watch and be humbled...







5. Castles, temples, and shrines. The imposing, the meditative, and the whimsical.















6. Gardens. Japanese gardens are elegant and serene, a joy to the senses:





7. Lanterns. These have been one of my great delights. Who knew there were so many different lantern styles...?









8. Cityscapes. There's something very unique about the Japanese urban landscape (at least the small bit we've experienced). Partly, it's the comparative lack of highrise. Partly, it's the muted colours. And then there's the density (see above). From afar, the towns look like collections of pebbles on a beach. Osaka, however, lacks for neither neon nor verticality.







9. Railways. We had Japan Rail (JR) passes, so our experiences relate only to that network and to the various suburban trains we used, but I really have nothing but praise. Every service we travelled on was efficient, punctual, well staffed, informative, and comfortable. The stations are well provisioned (and Kyoto's is an architectural gem). And the Shinkansen -- that shiny-white, curve-contoured, platypus-nosed sleekmobile -- well, it's just fabulous.







10. Recovery. The Peace Park in Hiroshima really moved me. What an overwhelming catastrophe to strike any city or country. And what a chain of fateful steps had led to this cataclysmic point. And yet how amazingly the city has recovered. The park is beautiful. The birds sing. The hum of commerce and everyday life goes on all around. And every month, thousands of paper cranes arrive as messengers of peace. It's an extraordinary example of resilience and rebirth. If ever anything symbolized the best and worst of humankind, this is it.