It's 21 years since we first met Singapore. It was our first taste of Southeast Asia (or indeed of any Asia other than Russian Asia), and we loved it. Loved it. That was one hugely formative trip...

Of course, Singapore has changed a bit since then. The field where we waaaah'ed along with the crowds at the Lunar New Year fireworks display is now the big grandstand that faces the Marina Bay Sands. There's miles and miles more MRT. Stuff's been restored and re-restored. In those days there was no Flyer, and the Durian would have been a building site.

Our accommodation on that first visit was in Little India, and this year, too, we've spent quite a bit of time in this highly colourful area.

Favourite things from this trip (in no particular order):

-- Drinking ginger tea at the Tekka Centre.

-- Visiting the Indian Heritage Centre.







-- Tracking down the Little India street art.

















-- Lunching on superb fish dum biriyani at Tiffin Bhavan, Campbell Lane (rice, fish, dahl, egg, and raita -- all aromatic and tasty -- plus a great salty lassi).

-- Drinking a beer at the strangely named Shiraz Patisserie, and walking it off with a tramp round Little India by night.





-- Breakfasting at Ya Kun Kaya Toast (as good as ever).

-- Breakfasting at food courts (excellent fish porridge from the place by the Ibis, and handmade fishball noodles and superb warm soya milk from the Amoy Street Food Centre).

-- Enjoying the exhibitions on offer at the National University of Singapore Museum. (I can't think of a better metaphor for hope than "standing on snow and looking for plum blossoms"; it was somehow very meaningful to come across Byron again; I loved the white suits series of photographs; and what amazing little time capsules those early Thai masters managed to create.)















-- Finding various places where the Samsui women are honoured. Some were married before departure, but many were committed to singleness (like their amah migrant counterparts). They are warmly remembered for their part in the building of Singapore (literally so, as many worked as labourers on construction sites).









-- Visiting the gorgeously decorated Yueh Hai Ching Temple.

















-- Enjoying a great lunch with friends at Sari Ratu a Padang place in Lucky Plaza. Perkedel, tofu and tempeh, prawns, daun singkong, amazingly soft beef tendon, keripik kentang, two kinds of sambal, delicious fresh orange juice -- what's not to like?

-- Discovering Barcook's most excellent baked goods.

-- Taking in Men on the Dragon, a bitter-sweet Hong Kong film about learning to face challenges.

-- Riding the big bus. Up top, and at the front. Through swathes of the neat, well-organized cityscapes that characterize Singapore.

-- Watching the preparations for the Lion City's upcoming 53rd birthday celebrations: the flag-draped apartments; the sound and light show; the banners. You celebrate, guys. You've earned it.