Once again courtesy of ViaVia, we spent yesterday evening at the theatre.

According to their website, "Ketoprak Tobong Kelana Bakti Budaya is the last remaining nomadic theatre troupe in Java." But actually the "travelling culture service" has come to rest in a village near Prambanan. At the back of the theatre are some simple houses where some of the performers live.

The basis of the ketoprak stories stretches right back to the old Javanese kingdoms. But continuing improvisation makes them fresh and funny. We arrived as the director was briefing the 20-strong cast on their roles for the evening. We sat on a carpet on the stage with everyone else, the red silk curtain still securely down. As the generator chugged, the cigarette smoke billowed, and the harsh stage lights made curious shadows, the players listened attentively as she outlined in high Javanese the shape of the whole performance. After which, they went off to make up and dress.

Once the gamelan had fired up, the audience started to roll in. We ended up with probably 60, mostly older people from the village.

After some introductory gamelan, accompanying a sinden, or classical Javanese singer, we had a solo dance performance.



And then we were into the story, partly sung, partly spoken, about the princess and the rival brothers who wanted to court her.



This art form might be fragile, and might be constantly struggling for funding, but dead it's not. On the contrary, it's still alive and vibrant. As the actors improvised, the audience laughed and heckled. We left before the end, but they were clearly there for the duration, watching the familiar story once again acquire new life.

What will be its future? Difficult to say. But judging by the performance we witnessed last night, it is hard to beat in terms of atmosphere, history, and talent.