Best breakfast establishment:
Well, this was a tough contest. For our first breakfast in Seogwipo we had extraordinarily nice black pork, cooked in a spicy red sauce with vegetables and noodles. (It's actually the pig that's black, not the pork.) And the next day, a couple of streets along, we came by a wonderful bowl of chilled buckwheat noodles (think spicy gazpacho with noodles). And on the third, soft tofu stew, with mushrooms, an egg, and a delicious gravy. But the winner, for providing two fantastic breakfasts in a row, had to be the place round the corner from our hanok in Jeonju. Tasty kimchi stew, with kimchi (obviously), big bits of pork, tofu, and piping hot spicy gravy. And fantastic bibimbap (and so it should be, as Jeonju is the home of the bibimbap).

Best breakfast in an emergency:
Fancy breakfast toast. A mix-up over breakfast in Gwangju saw us trying to acquire this meal on the run, on the way to the national park. Breakfast places were only just beginning to open up. Our toastie consisted of two slices of toast, an egg, a little patty, a slice of spam (big here, as in the Philippines), a slice of processed cheese, a little pile of cabbage, plus (on the various layers) chili sauce, brown sauce, and mustard... All sandwiched together, and slipped into a neat little paper pocket. Absolutely excellent...

Best breakfast in a hotel room:
The remains of the previous evening's baseball chicken, along with the pickled radish we didn't feel up to draining and chopsticking while wedged in our seats.

Best side dishes:
Little sheets of seaweed that you fill with rice and then dip; cold radish soup, which I was a bit suspicious of at first, but later learned to appreciate; and kimchi (how could you not pick this...?).

Worst food to take back to the hotel in a doggy-bag:
Kimchi pancake. This totally delicious stuff has an odour problem... Despite wrapping it in tin foil and a plastic bag, every time we opened the fridge door, there was this burp of kimchi... I'm afraid the room's next occupants hated us...

Best lunch:
Tteokgalbi, again in Jeonju. These are tasty little patties, kept hot on a burner at your table. You chopstick them into pieces, wrap each piece in lettuce leaves, add some garlic and a dab of a wonderful wasabi-like paste, and gobble the lot in one delicious mouthful.

Best quick eats lunch:
Dumplings and kalguksu (a soup with hand-made noodles, egg, seaweed, chilli powder, and perilla seed powder) from crazy-busy Veteran, in Jeonju. They've been doing these and a couple of other dishes for years, and they're always full. Something works...

Most delicious traditional dessert:
Patbingsu in Jeonju. First you need shaved ice (onto which some sweet milk must have been poured, because when it melts and pools, it's not just water, but a kind of sweet, creamy milk). Then you swirl through red bean puree, and top with little squashy rice cakes, and powdered peanut.



Most delicious modern take on patbingsu:
Caffe Pascucci's nutty, caramelly version was pretty fantastic, but the prize goes to Babeans iced fruit bowl, Gwangju. Take a small baby-bath, and half-fill it with the kind of ice described above. On top, place banana, kiwi, cherries, blueberries, melon, mango, and a scoop of ice-cream. Serve with red bean puree on the side. Don't order this dish if you're in a hurry, because you'll want to spoon up every melting drop.

Most innovative dessert:
Iced persimmon, Jeonju. This tasted very fresh and natural, so I can only surmise it was persimmon puree, frozen in a round mould, and then sliced in segments. Great idea.

Most expensive dessert:
Mulberry ice, Jeonju. Plain, unsweetened ice, layered with mulberries. Nice enough, but with Nigel's lemonade, we paid 20,000 won (66 ringgit). It definitely wasn't that good... Luckily, the wifi from this establishment was capturable from blocks away, so we recouped a little that way...

Oddest dessert:
I don't know how to categorize it, but it came from Wando, and it consisted of a kind of flat-bread base, on which were piled whipped cream, kiwi, banana, and cherry tomatoes...

Most adorable food transliteration:
A tie here, between "mopin" (muffin) and "semuti" (smoothy). We probably consumed far more of these than we needed to just because I liked saying them.

Best hot drink (apart from tea -- see above):
Sweet potato latte. Really -- this was awesome.

Best traditional drink:
Moju. This herb-and-spice concoction is another product of Jeonju. Coffee-coloured, and tasting primarily of cinnamon, it slides down very easily.

Oddest cold drink:
"Pine bud drink". Radox in a can...

Best place to enjoy a drink in the evening:
A little cafe on the way back up the hill from the harbour in Seogwipo. Elegant but homely. Welcoming but discreet. This lady really knows how to run a cafe.