After my third visit, I have to confess to still finding Australia's capital a somewhat strange place. I can't quite work out what the problem is. Individually, everything is stunning, but it somehow doesn't cohere. And it's hard-going for the pedestrian -- it's just so easy to lose your bearings as you trug round those endless circles.

But, as I said, the individual pieces of the jigsaw are superb. I was there for a conference, but I had time to visit the National Museum one cold, windy, rainy, utterly unspringlike afternoon.

My favourite exhibition was "Australian Journeys" (no surprises there). It featured all manner of stories of connectedness -- people who have come to Australia bringing their different ideas and different ways, and people who have taken Australian ideas and ways all over the globe. I never cease to be inspired by the connections that criss-cross our little world. But the gallery dedicated to "First Australians" was moving, too. Who couldn't marvel at the way these comparatively tiny bands of people learnt to live with this big, fearsome continent?

And, quite aside from the exhibitions, this is one wonderful building.

I also paid a short visit to Floriade -- Canberra's annual spring event, which turns part of the lakeside into a humming village of stalls and exhibitions, linked by carpets of flowers. How many colours can tulips come in? I don't know, but the answer is an extravagantly large number.

So, there we are, Canberra -- odd, not endearing, still rewarding.