Little trips round Yogya -- 6 -- Kauman
by prudence on 19-May-2013
Having recently watched Sang Pencerah, about Ahmad Dahlan, the founder of Muhammadiyah, we decided that today would be the day we walked to Kauman, the area where much of his history unfolded.
Very enjoyable outing. Up the back way to the main road; across the intersection to where Jalan Imogiri Barat continues under the guise of Jalan Sisingamangaraja; past the cassava market (more a series of small cassava shops than a market); and then to the graveyard where Ahmad Dahlan lies. An Indonesian flag marks his grave, which was being carefully swept by an attendant.
Jalan Prawirotaman next, and a (hobbit-like) second breakfast at Hani's. Excellent grilled chicken sandwich and Java coffee. Definitely a place to go again.
Then across Jalan Parangtritis, on past wonderful villas and fascinating graffiti, round the southern alun-alun, with its famous banyan trees -- and then, more prosaically, we stopped off for a brief haircut break for Nigel (much more satisfactory than the last hair-cutting experience, during which Nigel lost most of his trademark beard).
Finally, we arrived in the Kauman area, and plunged off the main road into a maze of tiny, narrow, ridiculously picturesque alleyways. There are many Ahmad Dahlan-influenced institutions here, and many religious schools. Flocks of girls were playing rounders in the space in front of the mosque gateway. They all came roaring over for a photograph as soon as they saw us with a camera.
It really is another world here. You are not allowed to ride a motorbike down these little lanes, many of which are in any case hardly big enough for a person, let alone a bike. Doors in the encircling walls can be shut at night to keep the nasty outside world at bay. The whole area exudes serenity and history. It's a fascinating place to wander.
We rounded off this most excellent morning with a delectable sop buah. In the syrup-sweetened, ice-cooled liquid floated pieces of apple, orange, sapodilla, melon, pineapple, papaya, dragonfruit, jackfruit, and banana. A queen among sop buahs, I would say.
Very enjoyable outing. Up the back way to the main road; across the intersection to where Jalan Imogiri Barat continues under the guise of Jalan Sisingamangaraja; past the cassava market (more a series of small cassava shops than a market); and then to the graveyard where Ahmad Dahlan lies. An Indonesian flag marks his grave, which was being carefully swept by an attendant.
Jalan Prawirotaman next, and a (hobbit-like) second breakfast at Hani's. Excellent grilled chicken sandwich and Java coffee. Definitely a place to go again.
Then across Jalan Parangtritis, on past wonderful villas and fascinating graffiti, round the southern alun-alun, with its famous banyan trees -- and then, more prosaically, we stopped off for a brief haircut break for Nigel (much more satisfactory than the last hair-cutting experience, during which Nigel lost most of his trademark beard).
Finally, we arrived in the Kauman area, and plunged off the main road into a maze of tiny, narrow, ridiculously picturesque alleyways. There are many Ahmad Dahlan-influenced institutions here, and many religious schools. Flocks of girls were playing rounders in the space in front of the mosque gateway. They all came roaring over for a photograph as soon as they saw us with a camera.
It really is another world here. You are not allowed to ride a motorbike down these little lanes, many of which are in any case hardly big enough for a person, let alone a bike. Doors in the encircling walls can be shut at night to keep the nasty outside world at bay. The whole area exudes serenity and history. It's a fascinating place to wander.
We rounded off this most excellent morning with a delectable sop buah. In the syrup-sweetened, ice-cooled liquid floated pieces of apple, orange, sapodilla, melon, pineapple, papaya, dragonfruit, jackfruit, and banana. A queen among sop buahs, I would say.