If you go to Gabusan art market on a Saturday afternoon, you'll find it quiet. Melancholy, even.

Its delightfully spacious, green site in Bantul houses a large number of craft shops. Leather, batik, stone, metal -- it's all here, and there is some very nice stuff.

But no-one was there, and so no-one was buying.

We were there, but even we weren't actually buying. Our problem was that we were looking for two impossible things: a handbag for me, and a present for people who are difficult to buy presents for. Truly, if you don't know what you want, you won't find it.

A hugely enjoyable part of the visit, for me, was the "wall-art".

There had recently been a mural competition, and I loved the wacky and vibrant designs, and the occasionally punchy messages.

There was also some 3D metal-work, weathering beautifully, and very charming.

I hope we caught the market on a slack day. I hope it's normally thriving. It's a great idea, and it would be a pity if it wasn't working.