Last year we started to learn about the charismatic Prince Diponegoro and his struggle against the Dutch. Today we went to Gua Selarong, where he based his campaign for a while.

Whatever the travails of the past, today it's a really lovely area of woodland, with a tranquility that survives the Sunday morning press of tourists.

We spent quite a while there, enjoying the views, the play of light and shadow, the gentle sound of water, and the incredible number of butterflies of all sizes and colours.





This trip combines well with an early lunch at the always reliable Omahe Mbok Giyem.