Today we went to the seaside. That bit of seaside that lies between two rivers: Kali Opak and Kali Progo. Chronologically, we went to Pantai Samas, Pantai Kuwaru, and Pantai Baru. In effect, they're all a continuation of each other.

Pantai Samas is where the Kali Opak collects behind the beach. Depending on the circumstances, it seems to either punch itself an exit in the dunes (as is apparent in some photos), or just seep its way through the sand (which seems to be what's happening now).

It's mostly the abode of fishermen, and wave-watchers like us. The seaward side of the beach slopes quite steeply. We stood on the top, looking into the green, gaping maw of the waves, and watching the swifts and dragonflies cavorting in the trough between the rollers and the sand.



On the river side, all is pastel-calm:



From Samas, we biked on to Pantai Kuwaru. This is a lovely, casuarina-sheltered stretch of beach. There's lots more infrastructure than at Pantai Samas, and plenty of stalls offering young coconuts and a patch of shade to slurp them in.



If you walk on along the shore a bit further you come to Pantai Baru. Much bigger this one. Much busier. And too many sand buggies, in my opinion, but then I'm notoriously no fun.

So we retreated to the more select Pantai Kuwaru, and chose one of the many places offering sea-food. A very helpful member of staff explained what was in all the boxes of fish on the counter, and we chose pomfret (bawal), which then went away to be anointed and grilled. The result was very, very tasty -- really the nicest bit of fish I've had in a while. Very simple. Just served with rice, cucumber, herbs, sambal, and kecap manis with chillies. Worth getting your fingers in there, and sucking the very bones (in fact I still smell a bit fishy).

There's no doubt about it. We do like to be beside the sea.