I love Gunung Kidul. Love the way it's so near and yet so different. Love its amazing, climbing, looping roads. Love the stone terraces and the woodpiles, the cassava fields and the wide open spaces. This is Java, one of the most densely populated parts of Indonesia, and look -- there is nothing for miles around.

Our first objective today was Goa Rancang Kencono, which is a suite of caves high up in the hills. From the first space grows a klumpit tree. (I can't find the translation for this, but it's reputed to be 200 years old.)



From there you move into ever smaller spaces, until finally you squeeze yourself through a narrow passage-way into a small, warm, enclosed chamber, for all the world as though you're retreating back into the womb.



Having been born again, as it were, we retraced our steps towards the light.

We then bumped our way along to the Sri Gethuk waterfall. This emerges from a very substantial spring, and therefore runs all year, regardless of rainfall.

Hard to imagine a lovelier setting. Running water, and a study in shades of green:





"It's like Bali," said the guy who accompanied us down the steep steps. This is always supposed to be a great accolade. But to me, it's not "like" anything. This is quintessential, vibrant, ever-surprising Java. I love it.