We'll start with the old. The delicious dadar gulung above came from d'Omah, where we went for our 27th wedding anniversary... It accompanied a glass of kopi Jawa, and succeeded a very good barbecued duck.

Hani's is one of our occasional places. A good bet is the grilled chicken salad (with leaves, apple, and cashews, and a spicy dressing on the side) and ice lemon tea (the real deal, with lemon, mint, and a lemongrass stirrer).

The Ministry of Coffee is always good for cakes and pancakes, but on a cold evening (yes, cold -- it's been strangely cold in Yogya this past week), you can't do better than order one of their big, comfortable cups, with melted chocolate at the bottom, and a jug of hot milk on the side.

But we've tried out some great new food places this week, too. I've already mentioned O Jogja Mio. They do the best ice mochaccino ever. Most people mix it all up, but here they follow the Southeast Asian tradition of layers. Chocolate at the bottom, then the coffee, and then a specially creamy layer on top. So you can dip and suck to your heart's content before you decide (if you ever do) to go for a final swirl.



A really lovely find, courtesy of a friend, was Pendopo nDalem. This is near the Kraton, and is elegantly and understatedly Javanese.



The food -- all sorts of satay, vegetables, tempe, tofu, and so on -- is simple and delicious. And their spread of jajanan pasar is simply the best I've seen. If you want to sample Javanese sweet treats, COME HERE!

Below are an unnamed coconutty one, kue lumpur (the round one), kipo (the green ones, a Kotagede speciality), and kue clorot (the cigar-shaped one, originating from the Purworejo area, and lovingly wrapped up in a long leaf). All delicious, it goes without saying.