WW2 in Singapore
by prudence on 15-Mar-2010
I always knew the fall of Singapore in WW2 was a big deal. But before I lived here, I hadn't realized quite how big a deal. WW2 sites have become one of the little sub-themes of our stay. I've now been to Fort Siloso, the Changi Museum, Reflections at Bukit Chandu, the Labrador Tunnels, Kranji War Cemetery, and the Battlebox in Fort Canning Park. The Ford Factory, where the British surrender took place, is still on my list.
Bit by bit you piece together the story of the Japanese army's landings in the wetlands area where we were the other week, of their seizure of the airfield just up the road from us, of their inexorable progress down what is now Clementi Road (my route to the ISEAS library), and of the desperate and doomed defence of the hills in Kent Ridge Park (not far from this same library).
There are many myths (the guns weren't all turned out to sea), but also many facts that sound like myths (the Japanese did make substantial use of bicycles as a way of transporting their troops down the Malayan peninsula).
There are many things that are really moving (like the rows and rows and rows of Indian names at the cemetery; the shockingly young age of many of those buried there; and the heroic sacrifice of the Malay Regiment at Bukit Chandu). And there are many things that are just appalling (like the Sook Ching purge of local Chinese). But there are also many things that are totally inspiring (like the extraordinary spirit of those interned, who somehow found the courage and enterprise to teach each other skills, manufacture almost anything, stage entertainments, and create the most moving artwork; and the amazing courage of the local people who tried to help the internees, at huge cost to themselves).
But there are also many things that just make you angry. I recently read "The Battle for Singapore" by Peter Thompson, which helped to connect all the dots of the different places I'd visited. The combination of ill-placed imperial bravado, lack of preparation, personality clashes, dithering leadership, faulty communications, downright racism, and lack of equipment, supplies, and training was a totally lethal one. If ever there was an episode that shows both that empires are a bad, bad idea, and that Britain was actually totally shot after WW1, then this is it. Very, very sobering.
Bit by bit you piece together the story of the Japanese army's landings in the wetlands area where we were the other week, of their seizure of the airfield just up the road from us, of their inexorable progress down what is now Clementi Road (my route to the ISEAS library), and of the desperate and doomed defence of the hills in Kent Ridge Park (not far from this same library).
There are many myths (the guns weren't all turned out to sea), but also many facts that sound like myths (the Japanese did make substantial use of bicycles as a way of transporting their troops down the Malayan peninsula).
There are many things that are really moving (like the rows and rows and rows of Indian names at the cemetery; the shockingly young age of many of those buried there; and the heroic sacrifice of the Malay Regiment at Bukit Chandu). And there are many things that are just appalling (like the Sook Ching purge of local Chinese). But there are also many things that are totally inspiring (like the extraordinary spirit of those interned, who somehow found the courage and enterprise to teach each other skills, manufacture almost anything, stage entertainments, and create the most moving artwork; and the amazing courage of the local people who tried to help the internees, at huge cost to themselves).
But there are also many things that just make you angry. I recently read "The Battle for Singapore" by Peter Thompson, which helped to connect all the dots of the different places I'd visited. The combination of ill-placed imperial bravado, lack of preparation, personality clashes, dithering leadership, faulty communications, downright racism, and lack of equipment, supplies, and training was a totally lethal one. If ever there was an episode that shows both that empires are a bad, bad idea, and that Britain was actually totally shot after WW1, then this is it. Very, very sobering.