We didn't have time for much. Indeed, we didn't even attempt to cover the most iconic sights. Crowds of domestic tourists made us shy away from some; and the military parade marking the 70th anniversary of victory over Japan made others impracticable.

Nevertheless, it was a very rewarding visit.

Beijing is surprisingly walker-friendly, with tree-shaded roads and broad pavements. And we had blue skies the whole time...

On Day 1, we...

-- arrived on the overnight train from Pyongyang;



-- eventually worked out how to get money and travel cards;
-- strolled the picturesque hutong (area of traditional housing) near the Drum Tower and Bell Tower, sticking to the quiet, quirky, everyday streets, and venturing onto the packed tourist thoroughfares only when absolutely necessary;





-- appreciated the plethora of public toilets on offer (most with cubicles), and puzzled over the collection of signs they all sported out front...;



-- experienced our first cat cafe (not totally convinced by this phenomenon, but the cats did seem well and happy, and were behaving in eminently cat-like fashion, and it was really nice to have a cat sitting on our laps again...);



-- climbed the Drum Tower (formerly Beijing's and the empire's source of reliable time), read about the Chinese seasons, and watched the display of drumming that takes place up there several times a day;



-- rounded off the day with drinks at one of the hutong's sweet little cafes.

On Day 2, we...

-- walked to Ritan Park, where sacrifices used to be made to the sun, and where people now dance, do tai chi, play cards, play ball games, or just stroll;



-- walked to the Dongyue (Taoist) Temple, where a succession of models depicts the "departments" of Taoist divine administration, variously responsible for areas as diverse as inflicting punishments, keeping rick on the river and mountain gods, and looking after birds;





-- found a great restaurant called Xihe, only five days old, and offering great discounts on their excellent menu (pear with lotus root stuffed with glutinous rice; mushrooms and lotus bulb; beef, soft tofu, and chilli; pork and mango...)



-- took the underground to the Lama Temple, where the shapes and colours of Tibetan Buddhism are a big surprise for eyes used to the Southeast Asian manifestations of the religion;





-- rested with iced pomelo tea in a nearby cafe;

-- visited the Confucian Temple across the road, where austere tablets honour the thinker and his disciples, and the accoutrements of erstwhile Confucian sacrifices are still stored;





-- walked home through low-key hutongs catering for the beer needs of expatriates, and along busy roads alive with neon-signed restaurants, exquisite smells, and mic'ed-up touts.

On Day 3, we...

-- watched a vast procession of tanks and similar armoury heading back from the big parade in Tiananmen Square (I have never seen tanks in action, and the noise, the vibration, and the smoke -- even from tanks travelling in peace -- were very sobering);





-- stopped for coffee at another elegant little cafe near the Confucius Temple;
-- took the underground to the Temple of Heavenly Peace (the crowds round the monuments were too dense for us to be tempted in, but it was nice just to sit beneath the pines, stroll the avenues, and observe people dancing, or performing in various ways, from singing Chinese opera to whistling -- with extraordinary purity -- the theme tune from Dr Zhivago);



-- enjoyed a vast, vast helping of Peking Duck, complete with pancakes, scallions, cucumber, and plum sauce (preceded by yam in osmanthus sauce, and cabbage with mustard).

Loved it all.

Before the next visit, though, I am determined to learn some Chinese...