Kuala Kubu Bharu
by prudence on 26-Nov-2016What a lovely place for a day-trip...
For ages we'd put off going, saving it up to do on the way to Bukit Fraser. But, spurred on by Rehman Rashid's Small Town, we decided to wait no longer. And I can confirm that KKB "vaut le voyage", as M. Michelin would say, all by its pretty little self.
There is now a free bus that will pick you up at the KTM station, which is a little out of town. Note, though, that said bus is infrequent, and doesn't dovetail that well with the train times. Never mind, it's a beginning... We got a lift into town with a friendly local, but we availed ourselves of the bus on the way back.
KKB also has a little history gallery, with information about its days as a strategically important fortress (kubu), and lots of photos going back to the times when the original Kuala Kubu Lama got swept away in a gigantic dam catastrophe.
There's also a tiny art gallery. When we visited, it was gearing up for KKB's international art festival, due to start in December. Good on them! Great small-town spirit.
But there's also plenty of enjoyment to be had just by strolling. The people are small-town friendly. There is a clear sense of civic pride, and the pretty little collections of plants that have been set up outside many of the businesses complement the trees that line the streets. And every way you turn, this perfect little piece of the 1930s offers up a picture-worthy detail: a gable, a window, a mural, an entrance...
We purchased our day's food and drink from three establishments. Two three-layer teas from Kedai Kopi Yoot Loy (so nice -- haven't had that drink for ages); two Chinese teas to accompany a very successful lunch at Teo Kee (a plate of tender pork, egg, and greens, a dish of fish and tofu in a fabulously tasty, gingery sauce, and a bowl of rice); and a black coffee and a sirap Bandung with cincau) from a modest eatery not far from the bus station. The bill for the entire day came to MYR 34.20...
There were clearly a few visitors like us, up from KL. You could see them -- just like us -- consulting their devices, peering up at signs, and comparing the two sets of information.
We don't get out often enough into the "real" Malaysia. It's a wonderful place.