A modest but adequate bus departs our local station for Temerloh at regular intervals, and MYR 11.30 will buy you the two-and-a-half-hour journey.

It's a while since we last headed up the craggy mountain road east, and I enjoyed watching that characteristic Malaysian scenery go by once more, spotting monkeys playing by the side of the road, tracking the progress of a bright red shrine, which had been loaded onto the back of a pickup bound for destinations unknown, and looking out for the pretty wooden buildings that still survive here and there in the countryside and the small towns.

Temerloh can be divided into the old and the new. Our hotel, the Green Park, was in the trim but functional new part, and there are more mechanics in the vicinity than you would ever think could survive the competition.

As you walk towards the river, however, you encounter the old part. Here are the classic shophouses, complete with shutters, chicks, covered pavements, and shelves and floors piled high with hardware or other goods.







The river is big and fast and impressive. A group of young motorcyclists were gathering in the early evening, wedding photos were under way, and families were out enjoying the soft river breezes.







Patin (silver catfish) are a big deal here. They're on the balustrades; they're on the pavers; they're in decorative formations outside the hotel. We stopped at a simple eatery down by the river to try some. Cooked in tempoyak (durian paste) they are really delicious, the soft fish complemented by the spicy, sweet-sour broth. With rice, tea, and various vegetables this came to MYR 17.







On the way back to the hotel, we stopped off at D'Island Cafe to enjoy layered drinks and a comfy banquette. We emerged to a very Malaysian evening soundscape. The birds were having their usual evening conversations as they settled down in the trees, as they do the world over. But framing this sound were the call to prayer, and the electronic chatter of artificial swifts (as that craze has obviously not gone away).

On Sunday morning a huge market occupies the river bank and the streets around. We arrived at 7 am, when they were still setting up, and we cruised up and down for quite a while.

Of course, there are plenty of opportunities to buy the raw materials for patin tempoyak. There are patin by the baby-bath full, and lots of bags of durian paste.

But also available are all kinds of river- and sea-food, fruit and veggies, traditional medicines, spices, cakes and snacks, religious books, clothes, jewellery, and leather goods. It's all very colourful and bustling.

Our purchases were limited to cups of gula Melaka-infused air longan (which we got for half-price because the lady was rapt that we spoke even a modicum of Malay), a breakfast of chicken satay with lontong and peanut sauce, and a bag of coffee that promises to have been "produced kampong-style".

But the atmosphere came all for free.



Twenty-four hours after setting off, we were heading back, and by 4.30 were unpacked and enjoying tea and Christmas cake.

Must do this more often...