We were last in these East Javan stalwarts two years and three years ago respectively. They're very different, but I like them both, and I feel I could live in either.

From Yogya, we reached Malang via the always enjoyable Malioboro Express.



My purpose was to attend a conference at Universitas Brawijaya, which turned out to be very good. Indonesian universities are generous hosts, and on successive evenings we got to dine at the nicely appointed Batavia, and party at the historic Shalimar.











Universitas Brawijaya is close to the Malang Town Square mall (and My Kopi O coffee shop, which does a nice avocado coffee).

We travelled by road to Surabaya, with the mountains putting on a good show all the way.

And in Surabaya -- as a super-indulgent treat to ourselves -- we stayed (for the second time) in the totally wonderful, history-saturated Hotel Majapahit. I adore this place... The rooms are huge; the breakfast is great; the gardens are lovely. This time we have a veranda! And this time, I tried out the cocktails on the evening of our arrival.







We'd already done a few sights during our first two visits. But we cobbled together a new itinerary, and as we went along, it kind of expanded into a very satisfying (and research-productive) day.

I offer it for what it's worth:

-- Walk north from the Majapahit (across the footbridge and along pleasant traditional streets) to the area that seems to be called Peneleh.





-- Visit the house of Tjokroaminoto, where Bung Karno used to board (and where he learnt about politics, and met his first wife).









-- Walk a few streets further to the birthplace of Bung Karno (you can't go in this one, as government negotiations to buy it have so far come to nothing, but it's a very pretty area).

-- Have iced tea at the friendly little warung at the end of the street.







-- Your best bet at this point is to catch a becak. In it, go to Pasar Atum, and find Kartiko, where your objective is to munch your way through as many varieties of traditional snacks as you can.

-- Walk (or becak) on, past the former gaol, to the House of Sampoerna. We'd already visited the clove cigarette factory and museum (but if you haven't, they're worth it). So our objective this time was the little bus trips they offer for free. While waiting for the off, you can visit the art gallery.















-- Pick up the 1 pm tour, which takes you to the Hok An Kiong temple and the Escompto Bank, and along some interesting roads in Chinatown, including one with no fewer than three prayer halls.









-- Book yourself on to the 3 pm tour, and while you're waiting, have a drink in the House of Sampoerna's cafe (try the asem-asem seger).

-- Set out at 3 pm, to see the Old Post Office (which used to be a school, and was attended by Bung Karno), the Kelahiran Santa Perawat Maria Catholic church, and the Ex De Javasche Bank.

















-- Find yourself a betor, hang on tight as you career home to your opulent lodgings, and catch up on your work while enjoying room service.

Grand Surabaya day out.

As a footnote, this is another case where Western guidebooks really don't do the place justice. There is LOTS more to do here than we had time to cover. And there is LOTS more food to check out (for example, all the fantastic little places opposite the church, and the pasar malam near Mesjid Ampel, where you can reportedly buy great Arab food).