Having done Singapore to Malaysia by bus over the Causeway, by coach over the Second Link, and by ferry, we felt the need to try another method. So this time we took the train.

This is all very anomalous. For historical reasons, the railway and its land are owned by Malaysia (although an agreement has recently been reached to sort this strange situation out). So, the first thing that happens is that you go through Malaysian immigration procedures. Lest this be deemed too much of a breach of sovereignty, however, they don't actually stamp your passport -- they just stamp your immigration card, which is left intact, rather than being torn asunder as usually happens.

Formalities completed, we climbed aboard, and set off promptly. At Bukit Timah station, however, there was an almighty wait for the down train. Eventually, we were off again, and this time got all the way to Woodlands, where you do Singapore immigration. Finally, you get to trundle across the Causeway, and begin the long journey north.

Comfortable enough train, but the windows could have done with a bit of a clean, and -- the serious bit -- there were only the most insubstantial snacks available. Everyone else had anticipated this, and armed himself with ample supplies, but we had not, and we were fine and hungry by the time we got to Seremban.

You travel through an awful lot of oil palm in this part of Malaysia, but there are still plenty of interesting sights to be spied through your grimy window -- Chinese temples and cemeteries, Hindu temples, mosques of all designs and sizes, banana, papaya, coconut, and eventually, very beautiful mountains, misty and forested.

We stayed at the Royale Bintang, which was very comfortable and really well located, right by the Lake Gardens. From our window, we had a great view of the big mosque, the gardens, of course, and that amazing backdrop of furry mountains.

As soon as we'd recovered from the train-induced starvation, we went for a walk around Seremban. (See the pics in the first half of this section.) I really liked it. It is a very pleasant, ordinary town, not touristy in the slightest, and very nice for a stroll. As well as the Lake Gardens, there are a number of interesting buildings, both colonial and modern. Many of the latter are Minangkabau-style, ie, they have large horns. There are lots of old shophouses, dating back to the early days of the 20th century. Seremban was the home town of S. Rajaratnam, Singapore's first foreign minister, after whom my current host institution is named.

Rounded off the day with one of the Bintang's excellent Margaritas.