~{nilheadimage~=132543~}
We left ~{nilpost~=807~;text~=Phattalung~;target~=phattalung~} on Thursday.

~{nilimage~=132538~;dir~=H~;alt~=redd~;caption~=Redd hanging out with the big bears at our Phattalung hotel~}
We drove back to Trang along the road that ~{nilpost~=805~;text~=Phraya Ratsadanupradit~;target~=phraya~} built, which is very beautiful. After breakfast, we handed over our trusty Toyota. And we tuktuked back to the minibus station.

~{nilimage~=132539~;dir~=V~;alt~=kopi~;caption~=Back in Trang, brekkie at Kopi, for old times' sake~}
A minibus ticket to Satun costs 120 baht for the three-hour trip. The terminus is out of town, but the driver will let you get off pretty much anywhere, so we disembarked at Satun's very lovely clock tower, which has the sweetest chime, and is just a few steps from our hotel, the Sinkiat Thani (basic, but OK).

Satun is pleasant. There are tree-lined streets, attractive houses in various styles, limestone massifs, and a museum.

~{nilimage~=132542~;dir~=V~;alt~=yellowhouse~}
~{nilimage~=132549~;dir~=H~;alt~=woodenhouse1~}
~{nilimage~=132583~;dir~=H~;alt~=greenhouse~;caption~=Again, you have to go with the flow when it comes to those wires...~}
~{nilimage~=132585~;dir~=H~;alt~=woodenhouse2~}
~{nilimage~=132593~;dir~=H~;alt~=residence~}
~{nilimage~=132594~;dir~=H~;alt~=oldhouse~}
~{nilimage~=132544~;dir~=H~;alt~=khao~;caption~=Just another khao (limestone outcrop)~}
~{nilimage~=132573~;dir~=H~;alt~=museum~;caption~=The museum is housed in the beautiful mansion built by Phraya Bhuminart Pakdi~}
~{nilimage~=132557~;dir~=V~;alt~=phraya~}
~{nilimage~=132556~;dir~=H~;alt~=museum~}
~{nilimage~=132559~;dir~=V~;alt~=museumexterior~}
There's a small night market every evening, and a much bigger affair on a Saturday night.

And everywhere there is evidence of that cultural mixing that makes southern Thailand so fascinating.

~{nilimage~=132595~;dir~=H~;alt~=dome~}
~{nilimage~=132596~;dir~=V~;alt~=chinesepole~}
~{nilimage~=132586~;dir~=H~;alt~=chineseshrine~}
~{nilimage~=132589~;dir~=V~;alt~=chedi~}
~{nilimage~=132592~;dir~=H~;alt~=bottomofchedi~}
The To Phaya Wang Park is worth the walk. It's basically a huge lump of rock, with caves underneath, a river running by, and a troop of monkeys in residence. But it's tranquil and pleasant (monkeys notwithstanding). As we were heading that way, some unknown dog decided to keep us company, lolloping along in the ~{link~= https://www.3quarksdaily.com/3quarksdaily/2011/03/saturday-poem-1-73.html ~;text~="intently haphazard"~;target~=levertovpoem~} fashion that Denise Levertov so effectively evokes. The monkeys disliked him intensely, but that meant they left us alone.

~{nilimage~=132546~;dir~=H~;alt~=lake~;caption~=Spot the dog?~}
~{nilimage~=132565~;dir~=V~;alt~=grumpymonkey~;caption~=May have got out of bed the wrong side...~}
~{nilimage~=132567~;dir~=H~;alt~=grooming~;caption~=OK, just keep that up for a few hours...~}
~{nilimage~=132566~;dir~=V~;alt~=babymonkey~}
~{nilimage~=132568~;dir~=H~;alt~=boat~}
~{nilimage~=132569~;dir~=V~;alt~=shrine~}
In the northeast of the town is Wat Mong Khong Ming Meung, also worth taking time to reach, especially if you can avoid the main road (and the compound dogs). I got the impression not many foreigners make it out that far...

~{nilimage~=132575~;dir~=H~;alt~=chinesegrave~}
~{nilimage~=132577~;dir~=H~;alt~=stupaforest~}
~{nilimage~=132578~;dir~=V~;alt~=buddha~}
~{nilimage~=132580~;dir~=V~;alt~=gate~}
We've eaten really well in all our Thailand destinations, and Satun has proved no exception. I have no names for the pork noodle soup providers on Satunthani Road, or the night market stall that served up what I'm pretty sure were ~{link~= https://snapguide.com/guides/cook-malaysian-sweet-potato-balls/ ~;text~=sweet potato balls~;target~=potatoballs~}.

But I can identify Prik Thai, which serves up nice Thai meals (and great affogato!); Negara Restaurant, which will do you a good breakfast of rice porridge or fried rice, while you watch the day kicking off at the busy school opposite; and Pajai Vegetarian, whose lovely owner patiently puts up with your limited Thai.

~{nilimage~=132547~;dir~=V~;alt~=salad~;caption~=Prik Thai's crispy tuna and mango salad~}
~{nilimage~=132560~;dir~=H~;alt~=pajai~;caption~=Pajai offers simple but very tasty "vegetable food"~}
On's is more of a traveller cafe, but it's pleasant for lunch or an evening beer (and they'll also fix your ongoing ferry tickets for you).

~{nilimage~=132562~;dir~=H~;alt~=ons~}
Our absolute favourite cafe was the RNK Coffee Cafe. Here, two cups of very good coffee cost 60 baht, and they come with a pot of genmaicha.

~{nilimage~=132563~;dir~=H~;alt~=rnk~;caption~=Excellent cake from RNK. And you see those banana-leaf packages on the counter? Unbelievably delicious concoctions of banana, black sticky rice, and coconut...~}
So, Satun has nicely rounded off our little Thai odyssey. Tomorrow we head back to Malaysia (by boat to Langkawi, and then on again to Penang). It's gone really well, and we have some great memories.

The journey scores high on the Ternometer. It has been pretty economical; the whole area invites further visits (covering more of where we've been, and pressing on further north, and into peninsula Myanmar...); the itinerary has mostly been relaxed and unhurried; and although it's not been an especially purple journey, our route has taken us pretty far off the standard tourist track.

_*_*_

Sadly, late last night and early this morning, ~{link~= https://www.bangkokpost.com/news/general/1642156/motorcycle-used-in-satun-bombing-stolen-in-far-south ~;text~=several bombs~;target~=targetname~} went off in Satun and Phattalung...

No-one was killed or injured, and the motives are unclear. But I really feel for these peaceful, pleasant towns that have shown us such kindness. Here's hoping the incident will be dealt with speedily and justly, and won't discourage people from coming to enjoy the kind of local hospitality that we've been so grateful for.

~{nilimage~=132552~;dir~=V~;alt~=coffee~}