Random Image

Two days in Northern Ireland

by prudence on 10-May-2015
garronpoint

How I wish this trip could have been longer... How wonderful it would have been to see more of this spectacularly beautiful bit of the planet, and journey on to oh-so-close Scotland and its far-flung islands.

Anyway, it was two days, and you just have to do what you can.

We hired a car, and travelled along the coast road from the George Best Belfast City Airport to the Giant's Causeway, and back. It was bone-chillingly cold, considering it was May, but thoroughly enjoyable nevertheless.

Top ten:

1. Realizing that Northern Ireland (or this bit anyway) is heart-rendingly like the Isle of Man. Just bigger. Really, round almost every corner, I found myself thinking: "This is just like Niarbyl," or "This could be the land round Gansey," or -- but you've got the picture.

iom

2. Experiencing the Giant's Causeway. It follows from the above that the land is very, very beautiful. But the Causeway is in a league of its own. I guess you can't go wrong with an enormous collection of basalt columns and a setting of humongous cliffs. But you wouldn't necessarily get it so very right.

baycliff

pavers pipes1

pipes2

rocks

cliff

pool

pipes3

splash

stripes

3. Following the Tor Head coast road. Again, it's invidious to pick one section of coast, when it's all so lovely, but this particular detour made for a great morning. The squalls were annoying (we got hailed on in Cushendun), but they certainly set off the grandeur of the scenery, just a stone's throw from the Mull of Kintyre.

torheadcoast

cushendun

4. Appreciating green all over again. Sheep-flecked, ruin-studded, rain-washed, gorse-framed Irish green.

green

5. Staying in Cushendall. This is a lovely little town. Be sure to walk to the beach. And then along the boggy cliff path to the ruins and graves of Layd church, which gazes steadfastly seawards from its green and tranquil niche beside a gurgling stream. You can return to town via a lane bursting with birdsong, and lined with primroses and violets.

cushendallbeach

laydchurch

6. Specifically, staying at the Riverside Bed and Breakfast. The building, on heritage-protected Mill Street, dates from the 1850s, and the friendly owners have created a lovely, homely, cosy place to stay.

riverside

7. Eating at Upstairs@Joe's in Cushendall. We were too full from the rest of the day's fine fare for anything but desserts, but judging by the quality of the plum and apple crumble with ginger ice-cream, I'd happily bet on anything else.

8. Enjoying the famous Ulster Fry for breakfast. Truly, Northern Ireland is well ahead of the pack where bacon and sausages are concerned, and if you add in their fabulous soda bread and potato cakes, and perhaps some fresh mushrooms, you get a very special breakfast indeed. Be aware, however, that if you order a "filled soda" for lunch, you're likely to get yet another Ulster Fry, slapped between thick slices of soda bread...

9. Enjoying many other food offerings. "Boiled cake", delicious crumbly wheaten bread, and Guinness-impregnated chocolate are the stand-outs.

Guinnesschocolate

10. Finishing off a busy day with just a wee dram of Bushmills. Felt like it would be rude not to...

Definitely all serves to water my Celtic roots...

smallsheep