The ferry from Padangbai to Lember is a wallowy kind of thing, that I was fairly glad to get off.

But the trip to Tetebatu -- marked by lively processions (three weddings and a marching competition, in fact), ice-creams, and beautiful countryside -- was a wonderful introduction to this lovely island.

The weddings are great. Participants parade along the main road in their finest sarongs, happily disrupting the traffic. Their job is to accompany the bride (who mustn't look too happy to be leaving home, as that would be hurtful to her parents) and the groom (who can look as happy as he likes). At least a couple of music groups enliven each procession. These come equipped, variously, with hand-held bits of gamelan sets, cymbals, and drums, or take the form of push-carts kitted out with keyboards. One duo had the front man carrying the amplifier on his back and a loudspeaker atop a tall pole, while the back man played a flute-like instrument wired in to the amp. Some procession participants were very solemn, some uproariously jolly. But with their din and brightness and carnivalesque atmosphere -- despite the drizzle -- they certainly lifted the jaded travellers' spirits... God bless 'em all...

We were also introduced to the 2,000-rupiah ice-cream, churned out from an instant ice-cream maker on the back of a truck. Very nice.

On, in our bumpy bemo, through the gradually darkening countryside to Tetebatu, on the southern slopes of Mount Rinjani. So many rice-fields... No temples any more, but lots of mosques. (Round here they seem to be mostly big, and with mostly Arab-influenced designs. Often they aren't finished. Waiting for funding, no doubt.) There is generally an air that this is predominantly an ordinary place, not particularly geared to tourists. Which is nice...

The Green Orry Inn makes a stupendously good curry. The secret is in the real coconut milk, apparently... They also do extraordinarily good Indian chai.

First impressions of Lombok -- excellent...