Back in Singapore
by prudence on 16-Feb-2012
We're in Singapore this week.
Got here by the amazingly comfortable Aeroline coach from right outside the Pyramid.
Highlights:
I've talked to many knowledgeable and helpful people. There really is a lot of regional expertise packed into this small space.
I've shopped for books at ISEAS, and at Select Books, and at Kinokuniya -- treasure troves of regional information.
We've caught up with old friends.
We've strolled -- round Chinatown, along the river, along Orchard Road.
We've done a couple of the Chinatown sights we didn't have time to do during our previous stay. The Singapore City Gallery was one. This is a great space, full of information on how Singapore tackles the problem of being a small island that's also a city and a state. The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple was another. This is very modern, very glitzy, and -- let's face it -- pretty commercialized. But the steady flow of worshippers while we were there, and the number of people joining the briskly rhythmic scripture-chanting session, testify to its spiritual pulling power. And the roof garden is awesome.
And, of course, because it's Singapore after all, we've eaten... Breakfast every day has come from the Maxwell Road food centre. Always good. We've not had time to queue for the super-famous porridge, but we've had excellent lontong, mee rebus, mee siam, and so on. Another good grazing space is the People's Park Complex in Chinatown. One lunchtime we hoovered up durian pancakes, durian tapioca cakes, and nonya rice dumplings (pandan leaf wrapped around sticky rice wrapped around a tasty sweet meat filling). Thus carbo-loaded, we were unable to investigate any further. We've grown very fond of Dessert Hut -- especially ah bolling (glutinous rice balls in sweet peanut soup) and egg beancurd (a lovely soft, custardy dish, served with mango or longan). It was a real joy to reacquaint ourselves with Ya Kun, and their excellent soft boiled eggs, kaya toast, and coffee. I revisited Peranakan food at Chilli Padi, and we also took in another old favourite, Kashmir. And some friends introduced us to the excellent Soup Restaurant, where we had superb Samsui ginger chicken; a lovely melting tofu dish; teochew olive rice; a spicily dressed, spinach-like vegetable (actually ah kon fan shu leaves); mushroom and beancurd skin with broccoli; and delicate Puer tea...
I always feel absurdly, uncannily at home in Singapore. Always have done, from that first encounter in 1997. Sometimes I wonder if I lived here in a previous life...
Got here by the amazingly comfortable Aeroline coach from right outside the Pyramid.
Highlights:
I've talked to many knowledgeable and helpful people. There really is a lot of regional expertise packed into this small space.
I've shopped for books at ISEAS, and at Select Books, and at Kinokuniya -- treasure troves of regional information.
We've caught up with old friends.
We've strolled -- round Chinatown, along the river, along Orchard Road.
We've done a couple of the Chinatown sights we didn't have time to do during our previous stay. The Singapore City Gallery was one. This is a great space, full of information on how Singapore tackles the problem of being a small island that's also a city and a state. The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple was another. This is very modern, very glitzy, and -- let's face it -- pretty commercialized. But the steady flow of worshippers while we were there, and the number of people joining the briskly rhythmic scripture-chanting session, testify to its spiritual pulling power. And the roof garden is awesome.
And, of course, because it's Singapore after all, we've eaten... Breakfast every day has come from the Maxwell Road food centre. Always good. We've not had time to queue for the super-famous porridge, but we've had excellent lontong, mee rebus, mee siam, and so on. Another good grazing space is the People's Park Complex in Chinatown. One lunchtime we hoovered up durian pancakes, durian tapioca cakes, and nonya rice dumplings (pandan leaf wrapped around sticky rice wrapped around a tasty sweet meat filling). Thus carbo-loaded, we were unable to investigate any further. We've grown very fond of Dessert Hut -- especially ah bolling (glutinous rice balls in sweet peanut soup) and egg beancurd (a lovely soft, custardy dish, served with mango or longan). It was a real joy to reacquaint ourselves with Ya Kun, and their excellent soft boiled eggs, kaya toast, and coffee. I revisited Peranakan food at Chilli Padi, and we also took in another old favourite, Kashmir. And some friends introduced us to the excellent Soup Restaurant, where we had superb Samsui ginger chicken; a lovely melting tofu dish; teochew olive rice; a spicily dressed, spinach-like vegetable (actually ah kon fan shu leaves); mushroom and beancurd skin with broccoli; and delicate Puer tea...
I always feel absurdly, uncannily at home in Singapore. Always have done, from that first encounter in 1997. Sometimes I wonder if I lived here in a previous life...