Terengganu Hari Raya Haji -- Part 1
by prudence on 27-Oct-2012
Another festival, another state...
This time it's the other Hari Raya -- Eid al-Adha, Hari Raya Haji, or Hari Raya Qurban.
And we're in Terengganu.
We caught a Nice coach from the old railway station in KL. Very convenient -- straight off the train and into the very civilized waiting area, where they supply you with tea and Ritz crackers, and your phone battery with electricity. We left on time, the seats were comfy, the driver sane. I developed a migraine en route, but that's hardly their fault. So -- all in all, a good bet.
Seven hours later we were in Kuala Terengganu. Same route as last time as far as Kuantan, with more glorious views of Malaysia's spine of mountains. And same route up to Cherating. But then we were in pastures new. Many of the traditional old Malay houses that I love. Many lovely mosques, with really interesting designs. A big oil-and-gas-intense area, with lots of refining stuff happening, and impressive flames leaping from the tops of stacks. And the sea... Blue, blue, blue on this beautiful, totally unmonsoony day. Seaside towns with big prawns on their roundabouts, and roads disappearing off to the big blue. Offshore islands looking tempting. Ah, la mer...
Hoofed across town, past many more of those pretty little traditional houses, to our hotel, the Grand Continental. The staff were all terribly apologetic that everywhere was shut for the holiday, and the islands had shut for the monsoon. "No worries," we said, "She'll be right."
Our window looks out onto the mouth of the Sungai Terengganu and the South China Sea. They've done something mega with the river mouth, though -- built breakwaters to keep the sea in its place, and cut off the hotel's access to the waterfront. The guy who showed us to our room said the port is planning to accommodate cruise ships from next year. Next year is Visit Terengganu year. Right below us are some little bits of kampung.
This morning we had nasi kerabu for breakfast. We're in The North, after all -- it would be rude not to. Nasi kerabu is bright blue rice, plus accompaniments -- a yummy, tangy bean sprout salad, toasted coconut, ikan bilis, hard-boiled egg, and a couple of tasty sauces. Good. All good.
Malaysia dispels many culinary myths. Food isn't bright blue. Think again: nasi kerabu. Tea and coffee do not mix. Think again: the beverage named Cham does just that.
Today we've walked. Along the river-front. Through the market, past heaps of keropok (dried fish crackers in various shapes, sizes, and hues), batik, songket (wonderful gilded cloth), and songkoks (little flat-topped oval Muslim hats). Along the wonderfully picturesque streets of Chinatown. Past the Bukit Puteri, the Istana Maziah, and the gleaming white mosque. Back to Chinatown for lunch (one of these awesome kopitiams that we love so much -- three paus and three cups of tea for RM 6.60). Back along the river-front for rojak buah (pieces of green mango, guava, pineapple, and some unidentified round things, doused in a sweet, hot sauce).
Then siestas. Zzzzzz.
This time it's the other Hari Raya -- Eid al-Adha, Hari Raya Haji, or Hari Raya Qurban.
And we're in Terengganu.
We caught a Nice coach from the old railway station in KL. Very convenient -- straight off the train and into the very civilized waiting area, where they supply you with tea and Ritz crackers, and your phone battery with electricity. We left on time, the seats were comfy, the driver sane. I developed a migraine en route, but that's hardly their fault. So -- all in all, a good bet.
Seven hours later we were in Kuala Terengganu. Same route as last time as far as Kuantan, with more glorious views of Malaysia's spine of mountains. And same route up to Cherating. But then we were in pastures new. Many of the traditional old Malay houses that I love. Many lovely mosques, with really interesting designs. A big oil-and-gas-intense area, with lots of refining stuff happening, and impressive flames leaping from the tops of stacks. And the sea... Blue, blue, blue on this beautiful, totally unmonsoony day. Seaside towns with big prawns on their roundabouts, and roads disappearing off to the big blue. Offshore islands looking tempting. Ah, la mer...
Hoofed across town, past many more of those pretty little traditional houses, to our hotel, the Grand Continental. The staff were all terribly apologetic that everywhere was shut for the holiday, and the islands had shut for the monsoon. "No worries," we said, "She'll be right."
Our window looks out onto the mouth of the Sungai Terengganu and the South China Sea. They've done something mega with the river mouth, though -- built breakwaters to keep the sea in its place, and cut off the hotel's access to the waterfront. The guy who showed us to our room said the port is planning to accommodate cruise ships from next year. Next year is Visit Terengganu year. Right below us are some little bits of kampung.
This morning we had nasi kerabu for breakfast. We're in The North, after all -- it would be rude not to. Nasi kerabu is bright blue rice, plus accompaniments -- a yummy, tangy bean sprout salad, toasted coconut, ikan bilis, hard-boiled egg, and a couple of tasty sauces. Good. All good.
Malaysia dispels many culinary myths. Food isn't bright blue. Think again: nasi kerabu. Tea and coffee do not mix. Think again: the beverage named Cham does just that.
Today we've walked. Along the river-front. Through the market, past heaps of keropok (dried fish crackers in various shapes, sizes, and hues), batik, songket (wonderful gilded cloth), and songkoks (little flat-topped oval Muslim hats). Along the wonderfully picturesque streets of Chinatown. Past the Bukit Puteri, the Istana Maziah, and the gleaming white mosque. Back to Chinatown for lunch (one of these awesome kopitiams that we love so much -- three paus and three cups of tea for RM 6.60). Back along the river-front for rojak buah (pieces of green mango, guava, pineapple, and some unidentified round things, doused in a sweet, hot sauce).
Then siestas. Zzzzzz.