I have actually been to Kota Gede twice already. Once in 2011, to visit the royal tombs. And once in 2012, on my birthday, actually, to visit a silver workshop. But I've never had time to just wander the streets, so this was my New Thing for the week.

Extremely enjoyable on two counts:

The network of little streets and lanes is incredibly picturesque, and very pleasant for a stroll.

We also had a exceptionally good culinary day.

Firstly, es dawet, which is another of the cendol family. This one, served off a stall in front of the busy market, was particularly good. There is a nice little bench to sit on, so you can take in the atmosphere while you absorb your cooling bowl of coconut milk, shaved ice, palm sugar, green rice flour bits, grass jelly, and some other totally wonderful soft green concoction that I didn't recognize but am now addicted to. She shaved the ice by stabbing the block with a small nail-encrusted wooden board, and rubbing it up and down on a larger wooden board equipped with a metal blade and a hole for the ice to fall through. Ingenious.

Then Bu Sri's gudeg for lunch. Deserving of yet more superlatives. I still don't totally know which bit is which in a gudeg, but every component of this one was fabulously tasty.

Then finally, we picked up some of Ibu Sulastri's yangko, another classic Yogya food, made out of sugar, rice flour, and peanuts. The variously coloured and flavoured strips are cut into squares, dusted with flour, and individually wrapped. Your dentist wouldn't approve, but they go down very nicely with plain black tea. At the back of the shop they were making bakpia, and Ibu Sulastri gave us some to try. Nice memories of my 2010 trip, when I toured a bakpia factory.

No taxis available the length and breadth of Kota Gede, it seemed, so we walked back to Terminal Giwangan (with a little help from Nigel's GPS), and then caught a becak home.

Grand Day Out, Gromit.